you win some you lose some

9/26/04

after my last post, we went out to try to find something to do at night. we looked through the listings in lonely planet, and decided to check out the Buddha Bar, since i’ve heard of it before. well, unfortunately it didn’t work out. upon arrival, the guy at the door wouldn’t let us in, probably because we weren’t dressed cool enough or whatnot. so lame. we really dont have room in our packs to have nice clothes or anything, and it sucks that we have to be turned away from stuff because of that. after the buddha bar, we just went to this other bar listed in the guide which turned out to be nothing special. *sigh*.

it’s crazy though, in this this town, famous sights pop up absolutely everywhere. just in transit to the two bars, we exited the metro and ended up next to this huge obilisk thing that was in front of an enormous greek-styled temple building. it’s amazing just how much stuff this town has. no matter which way you turn, you can’t go anywhere without running into something interesting.

concorde

9/27/04

this morning, when we went out to search for breakfast, we were greeted w/ a nice surprise… there was a huge farmer’s market going on. seriously, this market was nuts, they had so much stuff! they sold every food imagineable: various cheeses of all kinds, fresh yougurts and creams, all sorts of meats, seafood, fruit, vegetables. this place had every cool kind of french food you can imagine… and some french food that was pretty freaky: cow tongues that were literally 2 feet long, freaky chickens that still had their heads and feet on, and even brains. yes, brains for sale in little boxes. EW.

brains

after buying some stuff at the market (no, not brains) we went back to the apt and enjoyed the food. it’s funny, in all the other times i’ve been to france, i’ve never really shopped for food at all the little shops like i’ve been doing daily here. in the past, i’ve pretty much stuck to eating crepes and paninis non-stop.

anyways, our first stop today was sacre-coeur, a church on top of a hill. this place had incredible views of paris since it was so high up, and the church itself was really cool. on the way up the hill, i got stopped by some guy who pretty much forced me to buy a bracelet off of him. he kept putting it on me and wouldn’t really take no for an answer, even when i said i didnt really have any money… “this bracelet, very good, yes? it ancient jamaican secret. it give you jiggy jiggy. you know jiggy jiggy (this was accompanied by a hand gesture, that i wont try to explain here!)? it give you good jiggy jiggy, and you make girlfriend very happy! it help your jiggy jiggy!” errr…. yeah, nice. so now, i ended up w/ this dorky bracelet which marked me as a dumb-ass tourist. heh.

bracelette

so sacre-coeur was really cool, and you are allowed to climb this never-ending staircase to the top of the dome for an even better view of the city.



after sacre-coeur, we took a quick ride to the outskirts of paris to see the skyscraper area. they have this dope looking office building called the grande arche.

after trying to figure out our travel plans for the future, we hopped on the metro to go to dinner. we decided to try out yet another semi-nice restaurant. byt the time we were almost there, i was totally starving. a lady next to me on the metro had a baguette that she was holding about head height, and i started wondering just what would happen if i turned my head and took a bite out of it. would she hit me? or would she yell at me? i decided not to chance it ;). afew stops later, a lady got on w/ two rabbits in a cage. it’s funny that people here have bunnies for pets, cause the next restaurant we passed by had bunnies on the *menu*.

at the restaurant, we once again forgot our pocket translater. doh! so reading down the menu, i pretty much didn’t know what almost anything was. i ended up ordering escargots for my appetizer, and something random for the main course. i literally had no clue what i was gonna get: beef, chicken, seafood, deer? who knows!? it was pretty fun to have a mystery meal coming. in the end, it turned out to be a fish. a whole fish with what looked like really sharp teeth that could tear the hell out of me, but luckily, the fish was both dead and fried, so it didnt do much other than just lie there.

unfortunately, the dinner ended up not being all that great. the fish was so-so, the escargot was so-so, and the food caryn got was literally inedible. to end it all, a cockroach climbed up the wall and kind of hung out next to me for a while. nice. never going back there again, that’s for sure.

we cruised by notre dame, and it looked really really cool all lit up at night. the cathedral from the back had a very eerie almost sinister feel in the dark, almost like it was a castle in transylvania or something. we also, went inside it, and the really dark corners were just damn creepy, especially w/ all the candles lit up inside.

we also went to go see the eiffel tower at night. we just hung out and laid down on our backs in the park and stared up at it for a bit. it looked really cool especialy when it did it’s sparkly thing that it does every hour. laying there, i kept thinking how crazy it was that i was taking a whole year off from work, and that i was here in paris w/ my girlfriend staring up at the eiffel tower. so nice….

*v

another chill day

we woke up today and tried out some new shops for our breakfast. we went to a boulangerie that seemed pretty popular (there was a line out the door) to buy bread and some desserts, a fromagerie that had an insanely huge and intimidating selection, and a charcuterie (deli) for some saucissons (salami-esque sausages). it’s still pretty hard to figure out what we want to buy. i mean, i wouldnt even know what to buy if i was in an american cheese shop, much less a shop here where everything is in another language!

about halfway through the day i remembered that today is yom kippur. DOH! yom kipur is probably *the* most important jewish holiday and you’re supposed to fast all day from sunset to sunset. i’ve fasted on yom kippur for as long as i can remember, ever since i was a little kid. i was kinda bummed that i totally messed up this year… but i’m used to celebrating it in the US where my whole family is fasting and thus i always know exactly which day is yom kipur. a big part of this holiday is thinking about your religion etc, so i took some time out today, metro’d to a remote stop and sat around thiking. it’s not celebrating in full by any means, but i’m glad i did at least something!

after that, i met up w/ caryn at the rodin gardens. we read in our guidebook that this is a lot of people’s favorite place in paris, and we could totally tell why. the gardens are really chill and peaceful, and rodin’s sculptures are really amazing. a lot of the sculptures are instantly recognizeable as they are extremely famous, but there were also a lot of smaller works that were cool as well.

well, it’s saturday night here and we’re gonna try and go out tonight. we haven’t realy experienced any nightlife here yet, so it’ll be a fun change…

*v

did i mention how much i like france?

9/24/04

i woke up this morning w/ the eiffel tower in my window as usual, and while caryn took the frigid shower of doom, i went out to go hunt for breakfast armed w/ my usual handul of french words. it was so fun! first i went to the local boulangerie and bought some piping hot crunchy bread. next i went (after much searching) to a local fromagerie (cheese shop). it was really hard for me to decipher what kind of cheese they had here since i barely know french, but i ended up w/ some camambert and a mystery cheese nicely wrapped. next i went to
a local flower shop to buy some flowers for caryn, followed by a small market to buy fresh tomatoes and orange juice.

yeah, i know, shoppping isn’t some crazy wild adventure, but i really really enjoyed this morning. it was really nice to get food from all the local shops, it was cool that each thing was sold separately by people who specialize in it, and it was fun to try to convey what i wanted in my broken french. i hope to have many more such breakfasts. btw, the breakfast, other than the mystery cheese which was bland, was really delicious!

after breakfast, caryn and i went to go up the eiffel tower. we got a bit worried when, halfway though the line, we were told that the top of the tower was closed, but luckily, they re-opened it before we got out of line. so, the eiffel tower is tall… really tall… 1052 feet tall which is over 2 times as tall as the london eye. and i’m afraid of heights. yikes! but i had a good time anyways, and enjoyed the views. did you know that eiffel actually had an apartment on top of the tower where he would entertain famous guests? could you imagine?? what a dope place to have an apartment.

after the tower, caryn and i wandered past a few more things (hotel invalides, ecole militaire, grande palais) and then went to go get dinner. we went to this place that we found in the guide book that was a bit on the pricier side (50$ for the two of us), but we wanted to try some good french cuisine. once we got inside and opened the menus, i realized that not only do i know very little french, but i really really dont know any of the words for food. uh-oh. most of the stuff listed on the menu, i had no clue what it was. so here we were, at a fancy restaurant, and staring at these undecipherable menus. there were a couple things we could kind of make out, so we decided to go w/ those. then it turned out that they did have english menus, but we decided to stick w/ the food from before.

dude, the food was sooooo good!! did i mention i love france?? so, i started w/ fois gras on toast. it was insanely good and came w/ a mystery sauce that complimented it really well. my main course was beef tartare. i had expected it to be thinly sliced, but it turned out to be a large steak sized raw patty
of ground beef. to be honest, i was a bit intimidated by it at first, but once i tried it, i realized that it was damn delicious.

for dessert we had creme brulee w/ coffee. the coffee came w/ cubed sugar, and it took me back to when i was a little kid: when we were younger, my dad banked at this bank that had coffee for its customers while they waited. the coffee had cubed sugar, and i was always really excited to go w/ my dad to the bank because of that. whenever he went to the bank, i would really hope that he’d take me along, and i’d go and crunch on sugar cubes while he waited. i guess i’ve always been easily amused…

anyways, the whole dinner experience was so nice. great food, the ambience was nice, and the service was good w/ them pouring our wine for us etc. since we’re saving $$ on an apt, i guess we can afford to eat like this fairly often while wer’re here!

i’m enjoying paris so much, and i’m really glad that we have a whole week here. we *might* take a side trip somewhere else, but it could be nice to just spend the whole week here.

other notes on paris:

it’s interesting how different the fashion is here form london. so many sweaters!

it’s definitely cheaper than london. not super cheap by any means, but not as expensive as last week! but, the internet is crazy expensive here. about 5$ an hour!!

they’re using the euro now which is really cool. when we go on to spain, we wont have to change all of our money!

it’s interesting just how cheap it is to go from here (or london) to other countries in europe. from london to amsterdam, it’s only like 60$!! i wonder if that’s a big reason why people in america are so isolationist and dont understand other cultures. people here can so easily jump from one country to another, and probably witness life in other countries form a very early age, but if you’re form the us, the only countries nearby are mexico and canada (which is similar to the us anyways). i’ve seen stats that say that like 55% of americans dont even own a passport!!

*v

a new pace

9/23/04

we woke up and went to another local cafe to get breakfast. there are millions of these small cafes on every street in paris, and they are all fairly similar: a few tables serving the ususal cafe fare and a bar. one of the standard cafe entrees here is the croque monsieur, a grilled ham and cheese sandwhich… actually, i wasn’t aware that it had ham in it till i ordered it… good thing i’m eating meat again!! people here just spend days hanging out in these cafes, having coffee, smoking, and chatting. it’s really nice!! the pace of life here is just so much slower and more relaxed, and i’m really psyched to be adjusting to it. caryn and i have decided to not try to pack in too many sights per day and to just spend time lounging, strolling, hitting cafes, and just enjoying the city.

we took the metro to our first sight of the day, Notre Dame. the metro here is really nice, probably even nicer than the metro in london. there seems to be more stops here, pretty much any spot in the city is withing 2 or 3 blocks from the metro. also, the metro here isn’t as deep underground, so we dont have to spend forever on escalators as we did in london. i was thinking today about how the metro must be really nice for old people. back in san jo, if you’re old and no longer have a license, how do you get around if you dont have someone to drive you?? the bus system sucks, and probably you end up just stranded at home. here, no matter what age you are, you can zip around the city… it’s probably really nice for people too young to drive too.

anyways, back to notre dame. checking out notre dame was pretty cool (even though i’ve seen it the last 3 times i’ve been to paris). one thing that really frustrates me is not being able to take photos in the churches. obviously, i understand why it’s not allowed, and i would never break that rule, but there’s so much cool stuff inside that i always want photos of!!

after checking out the church, we got a crepe (yummmmmm) and hung out in the park behind the church. there was part of me that for a second wondered if we should rush on to the next tourist attraction, but i was able to banish that thought. instead we just kicked it in the park. dude, the pigeons here are *huge*, much huger than the sad scrawny pigeons in london… i guess people here are nice enough to feed them.

aftre notre dame we went to go check out another church, saint-chappelle. the church looked kinda cool from the outside, but from the inside, it was just incredible. i’ve come to realize that i’m really into stained glass windows, and this place had some of the most amazing windows i’ve ever seen. this is my 4th time in paris now (or is it my 5th?) and i honestly think that the inside of this church is probably the coolest sight i’ve seen here. i can’t believe i’ve never gone inside there before!!

once again, the photo doesn’t do it justice!

we kept walking after saint-chappelle, and went to the center pompidou. well, actually we weren’t planning on going to any museums today, but we ended up right in front of it, so we just went on in. yet another really cool modern art museum. sheez, the more modern art museums i see, the more i realize just how unimpressed i was by the tate museum in london. oh, one other thing i’m not really impressed with is video art. sure, i admit that it’s possible for video art to be profound and interesting, but 95% of the stuff i see in museums is utterly boring and, in my eyes, pointless.

after dinner (indian food, yummmm), caryn and and i got a dessert crepe and went back to the apt. i didn’t mention in my last post that nowadays the eiffel tower does this really cool thing where every hour all of a sudden the whole thing gets all sparkly and crazy for about 10 minutes!

oh one other thing i forgot to mention: we have no hot water. none. yesterday we tried to turn the shower on, but couldnt get the water to be warm. huh? after messing w/ it for a bit, we decided to call my aunt for help. now, the problem w/ that, is that before we left, my younger couisin spent like half an hour going off about how the shower is *so* easy to use, and only a real idiot wouldn’t be able to figure it out. now we had to call and let everyone know that we were idiots. *sigh*. luckily, in the end, we didnt have to call. we noticed a note in the elevator, and with my crappy french i was able to decipher that the hot water was off in the building for *3* days! so i had to take the coldest shower ever. take your breath away cold!!

*v

on to france

9/22/04

today we woke up and went to fly to france from luton airport. luton is the SJC of san francisco. hella far out from the city and a bit of a pain to get to. oh well. after a brief flight (where you had to pay for even soft drinks), we landed in paris. we spent the next several hours taking a shuttle into town, and arrived eventually at my aunt’s apartment which she was kind enough to let us stay in.

oh man… this place is *dope*. no, not just dope, but really really dope. it’s on the tenth floor of an apartment building and two of it’s wall have a huge sweeping view of the city. not only that, but that view just happens to be pointed straight at the eiffel tower!! seriously, this view is so nice, the photos i have really dont do it justice.

not only is the view nice, but just having an apartment is really cool. it’s really nice to not be staying in a hostel, and it’s really fun to have our own place that’s not shared by people. this apartment is really cozy, and after eating at a local cafe, we spent the rest of the night just hanging out in the apartment, checking out the sunset, looking at the eiffel tower, and enjoying the champagne my aunt gave me w/ a fresh baguette from the local boulangerie.

i’m really excited to be in a new non-english speaking country. there’s something excitting about being surrounded by people speaking a different language, and i love the confusion and adventure of trying to communicate w/ people. i took some french in high school, but hardly remember any of it, so it’s definitely a challenge to speak w/ people, but i actually really really enjoy that part.

*v

back in london

9/21/04

it’s been a few days since i last posted, but i’ll just pick up where i left off.

after writing my other post, we hopped on the train to go back to london. we needed to stay in the uk for one more day until we flew to paris, and we decided that we’d stay at a new place instead of going back to the piccadilly backpacker hostel. our new place was in a less hectic part of town, and though it may not have been as central and exciting, it had it’s own more mellow charm. plus, it was half the price of the last place, so that was nice!

after our usual fish and chips dinner (sheez, how many times have i eaten that in the last week?), we went to wander around kensington gardens, a huge park w/ it’s own small lake. one of the cool things in the park was the lady Di memorial fountain which was this long eliptical never ending modern artsy fountain, and a modern art gallery called the serpentine gallery. the gallery happened to have this *dope* exhibit by Glenn Brown. he has this really unique style where he very meticulously draws paintings that seem like they have huge gloppy brushstrokes, but really are very finely drawn.

as we were walking away from the gallery, we stopped to check out this display by it. this group of people had devised all these interactive projects for people who visit the park… for example they had these little hoops w/ nuts next to them so you could train the squirrels to jump through hoops, or little garden trowels so you could help the park by pulling weeds etc… all of the things were kinda funny, and then in the end, the woman poured two glasses of water, put them in this cardboard smiley face, and told us that we were to go out and find someone to give the water to and start a conversation w/ them. doh!! so, now caryn has these two cups of water and we’re walking around the park asking if anyone wants some. i dunno, if some stranger came up to me and offered me water in a park from an open container, i’d say hell no! but finally, we found these 2 people to take some water and by random chance, they were russians who were living in israel, and i chatted w/ them in russian. how random!

oh yeah, on other thing i wanted to mention about london. it’s really really big on fashion. everyone dresses really nice and very stylish. walking around and staring into all the cool shops, i really started wanting to buy a ton of clothes. of course, i can’t really afford to buy a bunch of clothes right now, plus even if i could afford it, i dont really have any more room in my pack for clothes… *sigh*. oh, and one more random thing about the UK, is that they have a dessert called the Spotted Dick. i dont know about you, but that really doesn’t sound appetizing to me!

*v

more brighton

we’ve been hoping for a lazy day for a while now, and today was it. we planned on doing pretty much nothing and it was really nice. after spending a ridiculous amount of time in a net cafe uploading photo, etc, caryn and i went to go have tea at this place called Tallulas. having british afternoon tea was one of the things we definitely wanted to do while we were here, and it ended up being pretty cool. i didnt really know what to expect, and thought it would be just tea w/ a few small cookies or whatnot, but it ended up being a huge amount of food! the place we went to was really small and quaint, and w/ tea we got several sandwhiches, gigantic scones w/ clotted cream, and desserts too. by the time we finished eating, we were sooo full!

after tea, we ended up talking to the owners of the shop and they were both super cool. i guess one of them went to Davis (crazy coincidence, eh?), both of them loved san francisco, and we just kicked it w/ them for quite a while. we talked about everything ranging from hating Bush, to the british govt, to weather. it was really cool to chat w/ the locals. it was funny, halfway through the conversation, one of the owners got a quizzical look on his face and asked us why in the world we decided to come to brighton of all places. i guess brighton doesnt really get too many international toursists. but ya know, despite that, i really liked it here. the town has a relly nice feel to it, and although there never really was all that much to do in terms of sightseeing, i still really enjoyed myself. on a sidenote, i think that i must be very unobservant… i left the place thinking that the two guys were father and son, but i guess they were actually “partners”. woops! good thing i never accidentally said something implying that they were father and son!!

after tea, we went and checked out the main tourist location in brighton, the Royal Pavillion. it’s this large “pleasure palace” built by a prince in the 1800s. the whole thing is really cool and built w/ a huge asian influence and is the only know oriental-gothic structure in the world. the inside of the palace was uberfancy and we learned quite a bit about how decadent of a life the prince had. i guess he didnt even drink water… the mildest drink he ever drank was white wine!! he smoked opium from waterpipes filled w/ port! he washed down the sedatives he took w/ wine, and at his banquets, there would be 100 cooks cooking for a group of just 30 people. i guess sometimes, the meals would have up to 126 dishes per meal!! oh yeah, one other crazy thing we learned… back in those days, sometimes in order to power machinery, they’d get basically a large hamster wheel, put a stray dog in it and drop burning coals inside so that the dog had to be constantly running in the whhel so as not to ge burned!! so messed up!!

after the pavilion, we went to the brighton pier. the weather was pretty shitty unfortunatly, so pretty mcuh all the rides were off. sucks, cause we hella wanted to go on the roller coaters. the weather for the rest of the day was what youo might typically expect from uk weather. grey, windy, misty.

that night we watched a football (soccer) game on tv in our hostel’s pub. people here are so crazy about soccer. we totally wished that we had gone to manchester and gone to the game. hopw cool would that be?? what’s more british than soccer? *sigh*. oh well. watching the game while drinking beer at a pun was pretty nice too. i’ve actually (thanks in part to tom) been drinking quite a bit of beer on this trip. i’m usually much more of a vodka tonic person, but the beer here is pretty damn good, especially this beer called john smith’s and when we can fins it hoegarden. the food on the other hand, is nothing to write home about. it’s not bad per se. it’s pretty decent… but just not very exciting. plus, it seems like pretty much every place has the exact same menu. we’ve had fish and chips soooo many times… although, fish and chips are pretty cool.

oh, one thing i dont think i’ve mentioned is the bathroomat the hostel. we’ve got one bathroom to share between the 10 beds in our room. each moring, the queue to shower is forever. not to mention that the bathroom is quite small. the other annoying thing, is that the bathroom door is pretty mcuh clear. yeah, it distorts stuff inside a *tiny* bit, but you can pretty mcuh see evryhing people do in ther while showering etc. i fogot my shampoo in there yesterday, and today it was 1/3 empty!!! someone toptally went to town on my shampoo!! and i’ve been so craeful to conserve it too. grrrr. also, last night i went to use the bathroom, and to not bother people, i left the light off in there. of course, at one ponit when i grabbed for the wall to steady myself (i was sleepy and out of it), i accidentally grabbed onto the industrial hairdryer in the wall, and it came off in my hand and everything was all loud and crazy, and it was dark so i kept trying to put the hairdryer back in it’s place. heh, people in the room must’ve been wondering what the hell was going on!!

did i mentino that there are starbucks everywhere here?? ugh!!! she’s, it’s bad enough that they took over the sdtates completely, but now they have to swamp the uk too?

so it’s ou last day in the uk today. wow. we’ve been here for 6 days now… and it seems like years!! being back home seems like it was centuries ago!! it’s weird how time stretches weird while traveling!

*v

Brighton!

9/19

so we left london. we only really spent 4 days there (one of which was a tired hazy day) but we really were hoping to see at least one more city in the uk and, after much deliberation and shrugging of shoulders (none of us had a strong opinion as to where to go), we chose brighton. brighton is a seaside town on the south coast of england about 1 hours train ride from london. we got up in the morning and, after our last toast/”juice”, we headed off.

the train ride was short and uneventful… well, actually i guess it wasn’t completely uneventful. we stopped at one stop and tom and i were extremely thirsty. when the conductor announced that we would be stopped at that station for 7 minutes, we decided to run off the train to buy some water. well, it turned out that the nearest shop was much further away than we expected and there was a line for the cashier. by the time we bought our stuff, the train was only about 2 minutes from departing. tom and i sprinted back through the station (and got a bit lost) and were practically sure that we would end up missing the train and be left behind… but luckily we jumped on the train w/ only like 30 seconds to spare. phew!! both of us were imagining a very unhappy caryn left on the train w/ 3 huge backpacks on the way to brighton!

brighton is a really nice town. much much calmer and more mellow that london, but still lively and fun. from what we can tell, the town is full of 3 things: little shops, job placement centers, and restaurants. people walk all over checking out the different shopping areas which are really cool… they’re kinda alternative and remind me of a toned down haight street feel: lots of vegetarian cafes, skateboard shops, funky clothing, boots, incense, etc. from what we can tell, brighton is also quite small in size. we walked pretty much the whole town from top to bottom in a pretty short amount of time. seeing as it is near the beach, it has all the usual beachfront touristy things: a santa cruz beach boardwalk type area (coasters, rides, etc), beachside seafood vendors, sand volleyball courts, mini golf, etc. we spent most of the afternoon just walking around and taking it in. the one thing that their beach lacks is sand. instead of sand, the whole beach is these large pebbles, which i can’t imagine would be comfortable to walk on barefoot. i keep thinking how someone who grew up hear thinking that this is what the beach shouldbe like would be quite impressed when they went to a “real” beach.

one of the cool things we saw was the ConTemporary gallery, a small gallery in an abandoned post office. half of the gallery was underground where the mail was stored and there are tons of old vaults and weird spooky iron doors down there. the whole place actually had a very unsettling eerie vibe to it and it was a bit unnerving to be down there. one of the diplays was a hospital gurney covered with old letters in envelopes and behing a chainlocked metal cage. it turns out that people were encouraged to address envelopes to people in their life who were “returned to sender” and drop the envelopes through the cage onto the gurney. spooky.

after walking around, we had dinner and then went back to our hostel’s bar. it’s nice to have a bar that’s actually a part of the hostel. oh, i forgot to mention just how crowded our hostel room is. there are 5 bunk beds in this tiny room and they are scattered about randomly giving our room a maze-like feel. it’s funny how quickly people adapt to new situations. i’m getting pretty used to this new lifestyle already. i already have new morning routines, i have certain sections of my pack where i usually store stuff, i lock things down in a certain way, etc etc. i’ve fallen into the traveller’s life wholeheartedly.

the one problem is that my clock is still all messed up. once again i got tired really early and we went to bed at like 9:15pm. i always feel bad going to bed early. i’m on my trip… i should be out and about till all hours of the night exploring, drinking, having fun and whatnot… but i’m just sooo tired!! conversely, i always end up waking up damn early! like 7:30 soemtimes. ugh!!

tomorrow we’re thinking of finally just taking it easy for a day. not doing too much sightseeing, not doing too much walking… mostly just chilling. we have one sight we definitely need to see, but other than that, it’ll all be relaxed…

*v